Phnom Penh, the capital of the Kingdom of Cambodia, is situated at the confluence of three rivers – the Mekong, the Bassac, and the Tonle Sap. The city is divided into three sections: the north, which is a beautiful residential area; the south, also known as the French part of the city, with its ministries, banks, and colonial houses; and the center, which is the heart of the town, with its narrow lanes, markets, food stalls, and shops.

Over the past four years, the city has undergone significant changes, with new businesses constantly emerging and tourism again flourishing. Cambodia has one of the most liberal investment laws, helping the city retain its charm and character. The town still has cyclos that weave through traffic with ease, broad boulevards, old colonial buildings, parks, and green spaces that remind you of the country’s French heritage, and above all, its people, who always have a smile for you.

The Royal Palace, located just a stone’s throw away from the Tonle Sap, was built on the site of the Banteay Kev, a citadel constructed in 1813. The Palace grounds comprise several buildings, including the Throne Room of Prasat Tevea Vinichhay, which is used for the coronation of kings, official receptions, and traditional ceremonies, the Chan Chhaya Pavilion, which is a venue for dance performances, the king’s official residence called the Khemarin, the Napoleon Pavilion, and the spectacular Silver Pagoda. The Silver Pagoda is worth exploring, owing its name to the 5,000 silver tiles weighing 1kg each that cover the entire floor.

The Royal Palace is home to the Emerald Buddha, which sits on a high pedestal atop the dias. In front of the dias is a life-size Buddha made of solid gold weighing 75kg. The golden Buddha is adorned with precious gems, including diamonds, the largest weighing 25 carats. The compound also displays the coronation apparel and numerous miniature Buddhas made of gold and silver. The walls surrounding the oldest part of the palace are covered with frescos depicting scenes from the Khmer version of the Ramayana.

The Independence Monument was built in 1958 to symbolize Cambodia’s independence from France in 1953. The monument has a unique and peculiar style and memorializes Cambodian patriots who sacrificed their lives for their country. Independence Day is celebrated in Cambodia every year on November 9th. The French entirely abandoned their interests in Indochina after the Vietnamese’s defeat at the battle of Dien Bien Phu in May 1954.

The National Museum of Cambodia is located in a traditional terracotta structure of graceful design built between 1917 and 1920, just north of the Royal Palace. The museum is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and the entry fee is $10. Photography is not allowed inside the museum. The School of Fine Arts (École des Beaux-arts) headquarters is located behind the main building.

Wat Phnom, located northeast of the city, is a temple on a tree-covered hill about 30m high. According to legend, the first pagoda was built in 1373 to house four Buddha statues deposited here by the Mekong River. The temple was discovered by a woman named Penh, hence the name Phnom Penh, which means the hill of Penh. The temple is believed to be powerful, and many people come here to pray for protection or healing. It is also said that anyone who wishes at the temple will have it granted. It is not surprising to see many people bringing lotus flowers as offerings for prayers answered. At the bottom of the hill is a small zoo, and the monkeys, which are its most endearing residents, live free in the trees.

TUOL SLENG MUSEUM

In 1975, Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot’s security force and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21 (S-21). It soon became the largest such center of detention and torture in the country. Over 17,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the extermination camp at Choeung Ek to be executed; detainees who died during torture were buried in mass graves in the prison grounds.

CHEUNG EK KILLING FIELD

Between 1975 and 1978, about 17,000 men, women, children, and infants (including nine westerners), detained and tortured at S-21 prison (now Tuol Sleng Museum), were transported to the extermination to death to avoid wasting precious bullets.

NEW CENTRAL MARKET

A visit to the markets and market halls is a must, as they allow visitors to become acquainted with the country’s local produce and buy textiles, antiques, and gold and silver jewelry.

The four wings of the yellow-colored Central Market teem with numerous stalls selling gold and silver jewelry, antique coins, clothing, clocks, flowers, food, fabrics, shoes, and luggage.

TUOL TOM PONG MARKET

For some good paintings or if you prefer antiques, head for the Tuol Tom Poong Market, also known as the Russian Market.  A word of caution, though: you need to sharpen your bargaining skills as the prices here can be outrageously high.